Test Drive

Barbour From Farm to Table

Founded in 1894 in South Shields, England, John Barbour's signature waxed cotton jackets were initially designed to protect fishermen and mariners from the elements. The 5th generation, family-owned firm still designs with protecting workers and sportsmen from the elements as top of mind. The Spey takes its name from the Scottish river that’s a bucket-list destination for salmon fishermen. Dame Margaret Barbour created the Bedale for equestrian pursuits. Our new exclusive version of the Transport Jacket was originally developed for mountain biking, and features a cropped A-line silhouette, a concealed spray skirt and a stiff hood to keep the rider dry — but it’s also perfect for a chef on-the-go like Flynn McGarry. “I love the jacket, the slight difference in length makes it great for moving around a lot. The hood is also extremely helpful in the city when it rains," says Flynn.

A typical day might find Flynn harvesting fresh produce from his two acre plot at Mama Farm in Brookhaven, Long Island before checking in on his newly opened restaurant, Cove, in Manhattan’s Hudson Square neighborhood. Then, he’ll hop on his bike, ride to Chinatown and make himself a quick lunch at his other restaurant, Gem Home. The Transport can handle it all.

McGarry is something of a food world phenomenon. He graced the cover of The New York Times Magazine at age 15 in 2015 and was labelled by Vogue as “the Justin Bieber of food” not long after. His interest in becoming a chef began in 6th grade, when he contracted whooping cough. He was forced to stay home for almost 3 months, much of which he and his mother spent watching the original Japanese Iron Chef. When he recovered, Flynn threw a dinner party for his mom’s friends and cooked from the Le Bernardin Cookbook. The guests applauded at the end of the meal as if it were a play. A passion took hold.

Flynn asked his mother if he could be homeschooled in 7th grade to focus on cooking; pop-ups out of his parents’ house followed. Next stop was New York, where he moved as a teenager to work at Eleven Madison Park under chef Daniel Humm before opening his first restaurant, Gem, in 2018. Now, at 26, he’s older, wiser and calmer as he chats about the inspirations for Cove and his fondness for cinnamon basil.

Did a specific type of produce get you interested in farming some of the food for Cove?

We had cooked for a bunch of open-air dinners at Mama Farm, and [its owner], Isabella [Rossellini], was interested in letting us see what we could do with a few acres. There were some specific types of basil I wanted to try, lemon basil and cinnamon basil, which I use in ceviche to mimic the heat and acidity of limes and chiles.

What are you planning on cooking at Cove?

I’m originally from California, so I’m trying to bring that “California cool” type of cooking into a New York fine dining restaurant. East Coast produce with a West Coast feeling. I was out [West] recently, and I went back to some of the classics — Zuni Cafe in San Francisco and The Harbor House Inn, which is this Michelin-starred restaurant overlooking the Pacific near Mendocino. I also spent a good amount of time working in Scandinavia, at Geranium in Copenhagen and Maaemo in Oslo, and those are big influences on my cooking and the design of the restaurant, which has an open kitchen and a minimalist wood interior.

So, casual or formal?

We’ll have a big wood-fired grill at Cove, which is the only way to really recreate the outdoor style of cooking we were doing on the farm. The restaurant, which holds 90, will have an a la carte menu, a tasting menu and private dining.

Are you a fancy toque or t-shirt and apron kind of guy?

I’m definitely on the simpler side. A white t-shirt, jeans and a sweater. I’ve also learned over the years that the apron really helps people figure out that you’re the chef. I’d love to wear nicer things, but one small mistake and your nice shirt is covered in an explosion of beet juice.

How has your personal style as a chef evolved over the years?

My chiropractor said she would kill me if I didn’t get some more forgiving shoes for my knees, so I’m now wearing these dorky but comfortable hiking boots. I like to think it's a JW Anderson sort of vibe.

What’s your soundtrack when you’re cooking?

If it's leisurely, at home, my girlfriend — who loves the classics — will put on jazz or Dean Martin or Frank Sinatra. If it's at work, it could be anything that gets the team in gear, Daft Punk or whatever.

Do you have a favorite movie about food?

Yes. It’s this 3-hour documentary, Menus Plaisirs — Les Troisgrois, about this French family whose restaurant has had three Michelin stars for over fifty years. It's a documentary I saw for the first time at Film Forum on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, when the city was empty. It’s from the chefs’ perspective, and it is so inspiring.

If you could go back in time to talk to your 16-year-old self when he was opening his first restaurant, what would you want to say?

You don’t need to put so much pressure on yourself; it’s just one restaurant. Back then I thought Gem would be my Forever Restaurant. All these years later, I’ve gotten more confident in my cooking and the ideal of the restaurant. I have a clear vision of what I want. The time it takes to act on a decision is much faster. Simple example: I didn’t have to research lighting for Cove. I knew the exact lightbulbs I like.

AT A GLANCE: THE BARBOUR TRANSPORT

Exclusively for Todd Snyder


  • Oversized A-line silhouette
  • Water-resistant waxed cotton fabric
  • Exclusive gray color
  • Exclusive Modern Tartan pattern
  • Reverse-entry hand pockets
  • Detachable storm hood
  • Designed to hit at the waist

Photographs by Mikey DeTemple
Interviewed by John Brodie